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The Grand Plaza at Yaxchilán in the rainforest

Things to See at Yaxchilán & Beyond

Eleven places that make the journey to the river city — from the boat jetty to the painted rooms of Bonampak.

Yaxchilán is not one sight but a whole jungle hillside of them: the Labyrinth, the Grand Plaza, Structure 33, the acropolises and dozens of carved lintels and stelae. Getting there takes you along the Usumacinta from Frontera Corozal, and almost every visit also includes Bonampak and its murals. Palenque, the waterfalls and San Cristóbal complete a Chiapas trip — and Tikal lies just across the river. Each place below has its own guide.

Yaxchilán archaeological zone

The Grand Plaza of Yaxchilán with terraces climbing towards the acropolis in the rainforest Yaxchilán archaeological zone

Yaxchilán

The Maya city in the bend of the river

A Classic Maya capital wrapped in a loop of the Usumacinta, on the border with Guatemala and reachable only by boat. Plazas, acropolises and temples climb out of the rainforest, with carved lintels, stelae and howler monkeys overhead.

Structure 33 at Yaxchilán, with its tall pierced roof comb above the jungle Yaxchilán archaeological zone

Structure 33

The temple of Bird Jaguar IV

The masterpiece of Yaxchilán: a temple high above the Grand Plaza with a pierced roof comb, three carved lintels over its doorways and a hieroglyphic stairway showing the king playing the ballgame. Inside sits his headless stone statue.

The stepped stone façade of Structure 19, the Labyrinth, at Yaxchilán Yaxchilán archaeological zone

The Labyrinth

Dark passages and sleeping bats

Structure 19, known as El Laberinto, is a building of narrow corridors, stairways and chambers on several levels. Most visitors enter Yaxchilán through it — torch in hand, bats overhead — and emerge blinking onto the Grand Plaza.

Lintel 24 from Yaxchilán, showing Lady Xoc drawing a rope through her tongue before Shield Jaguar Yaxchilán archaeological zone

The Carved Lintels

Shield Jaguar, Lady Xoc and the vision serpent

Yaxchilán is famous for its carved stone lintels — the finest relief sculpture in the Maya world. The most celebrated, from Lady Xoc’s temple (Structure 23), are now in the British Museum and Mexico City, but dozens of others remain on site.

The Usumacinta & the Lacandon jungle

The Great Plaza and acropolis of Bonampak surrounded by rainforest The Usumacinta & the Lacandon jungle

Bonampak

The painted walls of the Maya

A small Maya site in the Lacandon jungle whose Temple of the Murals preserves three rooms of painted scenes from around AD 790 — court ceremonies, musicians, a battle and its captives. It is combined with Yaxchilán on almost every tour.

Palenque, Chiapas & beyond

The Temple of the Inscriptions and Temple XIII at Palenque Palenque, Chiapas & beyond

Palenque

Pakal’s city and your base

The most beautiful Maya site in Mexico and the town every Yaxchilán tour starts from. See the Temple of the Inscriptions, the Palace and its tower, and the Cross Group on the edge of the rainforest.

The turquoise cascades of Agua Azul in the Chiapas forest Palenque, Chiapas & beyond

Agua Azul & Misol-Ha

Turquoise cascades and a jungle curtain

Two classic waterfalls on the road between Palenque and the highlands: Misol-Ha, a single high fall you can walk behind, and Agua Azul, a long staircase of turquoise pools when the water is clear.

Temple I rising above the Great Plaza at Tikal Palenque, Chiapas & beyond

Tikal (Guatemala)

Onward across the river

From Frontera Corozal you can cross the Usumacinta into Guatemala and reach Flores, the base for Tikal, in a day. It is the classic way to link Mexico’s Maya sites with the great city of the Petén.

A sensible five-day plan: Day one, arrive in Palenque. Day two, Palenque’s ruins in the morning and Misol-Ha in the afternoon. Day three, the early tour to Yaxchilán by boat and Bonampak (or the two-day version with a night at Lacanjá). Day four, the waterfalls of Agua Azul on the road up to San Cristóbal. Day five, Chamula and Zinacantán — or cross from Frontera Corozal into Guatemala for Tikal instead.
Plan your trip

Take the boat to the Maya city in the jungle

An hour down the Usumacinta, howler monkeys in the ceibas and the carved temples of the Jaguar kings — plus Bonampak’s murals on the same day. Compare Yaxchilán tours from Palenque and book in a couple of taps.