Bonampak was a modest kingdom in the orbit of Yaxchilán, but it holds one of the greatest treasures of Maya art. Structure 1, the Temple of the Murals, contains three rooms whose walls and vaults are covered with paintings made around AD 790 under the ruler Yajaw Chan Muwaan: a court presentation with musicians and dancers, a ferocious battle in the jungle, and the judgement of captives.
The murals were shown to outsiders in 1946, when Lacandon Maya led American visitors to the site, and they transformed ideas about the Maya, revealing a society of warfare and spectacle. Today the site lies within Lacandon territory and is protected; visitors leave their vehicles at the community entrance and ride in community transport through the forest.
Bonampak: what to see and do
Step into the three painted rooms
Each room tells part of the story. Visitor numbers inside are limited and flash photography is forbidden to protect the pigments. Let your eyes adjust — the detail is astonishing.
See Stela 1
On the Great Plaza stands Stela 1, a towering carved portrait of the king — one of the tallest stelae in the Maya world.
Climb the acropolis
Terraces rise behind the plaza to temples with more carved lintels. The view back over the plaza and forest is lovely in the late afternoon.
Bonampak: how to get there
- With Yaxchilán on a day tour from Palenque: the usual way — see the best tours.
- Independently: from the Carretera Fronteriza near San Javier, a side road leads to the Lacandon checkpoint; from there community vans take visitors the last stretch to the site for a fee.
- From Lacanjá Chansayab: a short ride — ideal if you sleep in the jungle.
Insider tips
- Visit Bonampak in the afternoon after Yaxchilán, or first thing from Lacanjá, when it is quietest.
- Bring small change for the community transport and the site ticket.
- The murals are faded in places and were damaged by past “restoration”; reproductions in museums help you read them.
Bonampak: the best tours
These top-rated experiences are the easiest way to get there:
Day trip from US$220 Yaxchilán & Bonampak Ruins and Lacandon Jungle from Palenque
A long-running classic with dozens of reviews: the boat to Yaxchilán, the murals of Bonampak and the Lacandon rainforest in between. Priced a little higher than the basic day trips, with more of a jungle focus.
- Cruise the Usumacinta to Yaxchilán
- The painted rooms of Bonampak
- A taste of the Lacandon rainforest
Day trip from US$133 Palenque: Yaxchilán & Bonampak Day Trip with Boat Transfer
A long, well-organised day that bundles almost everything — transport, the boat on the Usumacinta, entrance fees and breakfast — so there is little extra to pay on the day. Solid reviews and a clear inclusions list.
- Hotel transport, boat and site entrance fees
- Breakfast on the way
- Local Lacandon transport into Bonampak
Multi-day tour from US$186 From Palenque: Yaxchilán, Bonampak & Lacandon Jungle, 2 Days with Cabin
The better way to do it: both ruins at a gentler pace, a night in a cabin at Lacanjá Chansayab and a jungle walk with a Lacandon guide. Excellent early reviews.
- A night in a cabin in the Lacandon jungle
- Guided hike with a Lacandon Maya guide
- Yaxchilán by boat and Bonampak
